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Home inspection is an objective visual examination of the physical structure and property utilities, from the roof to the foundation. A standard home inspector's report will include an evaluation of the condition of the property heating system, central air conditioning system (temperature permitting), interior plumbing and electrical systems; the roof, attic, and visible insulation; walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors; the foundation, basement, and visible structure.

You should learn as much as you can about the condition of the property and the need for any major repairs, fixings and installations before you buy. Home inspection will point out the positive aspects of home, as well as the maintenance that will be necessary to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will have much clearer understanding of the property you are about to purchase, and will be able to make a confident buying decision.

If you have owned your home for a long time, home inspection can identify any problems and recommend preventive measures which might avoid costly future repairs. In addition, home sellers may opt for having an inspection prior to placing the home on the market to gain better understanding of conditions which the buyer's inspector may point out. This provides an opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.

Getting home ready for the home inspection is typically the seller's responsibility. The listing agent should notify the seller of the inspection to come. The following suggestions will help to get the home ready for the home inspection, and minimize the need for the home inspector to make a return trip to the home, which may cost an additional fee.

Ensure pets won’t hinder the home inspection. Tell your realtor that cats or other animals need to be kept inside.

Replace any burned out light bulbs.

Test all smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Replace batteries if needed.

Clean or replace dirty HVAC air filters. Make sure filters fit and are properly secured. Remove dust from both supply and return registers.

Move wood, stored items or debris away from foundation (helps both property inspection and termite inspection).

Unlock or remove locks from any items the inspector must access.

• Gates
• Attic access, hatches, doors
• Electric service panels
• Crawl space hatches
• Special closets

Confirm areas and components are accessible by removing items blocking access.

• Electric service panels
• Heating & air conditioning equipment
• Water heaters
• Ground fault electrical receptacles (especially in garage)
• Attic and crawl space access

Trim tree limbs / shrubs from the roof & away from house

Repair or replace broken, damaged, missing items

• Screens
• Door knobs
• Window locks, glass
• Chimney flu caps
• Gutters & down spouts

Confirm gas, water and electricity are turned on and gas pilots are burning.

The issues that really matter when buying a home will fall into four categories:

Major defects.  An example of this would be a structural failure.

Things that lead to major defects.  A small roof-flashing leak, for example.

Things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home.

Safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electric panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed. Often a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

Exterior. Wear on a roof may be readily apparent if the wear is very advanced but a roof that is starting to age is a more subtle defect that the engineer can uncover. Resurfacing a roof might cost a fortune, and will cost much more if the existing roofing surface needs to be removed prior to re-roofing. If a roof will need to be resurfaced in the foreseeable future, this may be a negotiable item. Similarly, the siding of the house should be carefully inspected because residing a house can also cost a lot. Replacement of old defective windows can also be worth much, don't overlook this obvious defect. Eliminating problems before they start is smart, for example, the engineer should make sure that the land around the home is properly graded to divert water away from the home. This will help to reduce the possibility of water intrusion into the home.

Interior. If there's one defect you don't want to find out about after you move in, it's a basement that floods. The basement areas of the home should be thoroughly checked for signs of water intrusion, such as water stains, mildew, and odor of dampness, efflorescence on the walls and floors, damaged and cupping floors. In addition, look for water proofing systems, sump pumps, etc. in the basement; these systems can help to reduce the risk of water flooding into the basement but may not be able to eliminate water intrusion under all conditions. If a house needs water proofing measures, the cost can run into thousands.

Proper insulation and ventilation should not be overlooked; proper ventilation is more important than most home buyers are aware of. Inadequate ventilation in an attic results in accelerated deterioration of the structural roof deck; if this occurs, major expense will be incurred to remove and replace the roofing shingles and roof deck, and in extreme cases, the roof is to be rafted. This is one defect that should not be overlooked.

Structural. Bulges, deflections, and other irregularities in the roof, exterior wall framing, and interior framing, or cracks in the foundation wall may indicate a serious structural problem that may be the result of poor structural design, poor construction techniques, improper structural alteration, water damage, or termite damage. Jacking up a house to replace damaged structural components, or underpinning a defective foundation wall is a major expense. The home inspection engineer has the experience, education and expertise to evaluate structural problems; this is one of the reasons why retaining the services of a Licensed Professional Engineer (P.E.) to conduct your home inspection instead of a home inspector who is not licensed to practice engineering is advantageous. Sure, anybody can report that a structural defect exists, but only a P.E. is licensed to offer a professional engineering judgment and design to correct the problem. Home buyers who do not retain the services of a P.E. may have to pay a second fee to obtain a professional engineer's opinion.

Electrical system. First, the engineer should determine the size of the service to determine if it meets current standards; bringing an upgraded electrical service into a home can cost a considerable amount of money. The electrical system should then be checked by removing the cover from the electric service panel. Once the wiring is exposed, be sure that the home inspection engineer looks for problems in the panel such as burned wiring, overloaded  circuits (the fuse or circuit breaker is too large for the wire size), improper wiring connections, openings in the panel (where a child can put their finger in the panel, ouch!), home owner installed wiring, etc. In addition, electrical switches and convenience outlets in the house should be checked for open ground and wiring reversal conditions. Throughout the house, dead ended wiring and exposed wiring should be on the list of defects to look for. Homes wired in the mid 60's to mid 70's may have aluminum wiring and if so, the engineer should determine if an approved retrofit has been installed at the wiring connections; if not, a potential fire safety hazard exists. If the home is very old, it may have knob and tube wiring; this is ancient wiring and may be hazardous. Extensive wiring replacement can cost a lot.

Plumbing system. First, the home inspection engineer should determine the type of pipe that supplies water to the house from the municipal main in the street. Be wary of old lead and galvanized steel water supply pipes that can result in high replacement costs. Be sure that your home inspection engineer checks the piping distribution in the house for type of material and condition looking for deterioration, incompatible piping materials, and leaks. Your engineer should carry a moisture meter to evaluate any suspect plaster or wall board on the ceilings and walls caused by water leaks; replacing the piping network in the walls and ceilings is a major expense that can cost thousands of dollars. Be sure that the engineer checks all of the fixtures and faucets for proper operation, and also checks tiled bathtub and shower enclosures for integrity. Replacement of tiling in a bathroom, or replacement of a shower pan can cost a couple of thousand.

Heating and air-conditioning systems. Look out for that old clunker that used to fire coal; it will consume fuel faster than you can feed it; plan on replacing it with a modern efficient heating system. Other problems include defective furnace heat exchangers. This type of problem is not always easy to uncover and usually means that the furnace will require replacement. Boilers that are starting to leak will also require replacement; your engineer should look for these major defects. In addition, your engineer should make sure that the heat distribution is satisfactory and that the heat distribution piping or ductwork is in good condition. Safety concerns such as defective controls, inoperative emergency switches, and evidence of past malfunctions and carbon monoxide emissions must be carefully investigated by the engineer. Be careful of special problems associated with radiant floor heating and other less common systems.

The engineer should advise you to have underground oil storage tanks tested for integrity; a leaking underground oil storage tank can cause considerable environmental damage. Another environmental concern is the existence of insulation that may contain asbestos and is especially hazardous if the material is friable. The engineer should advise you to have any suspect material laboratory tested.

The home inspection engineer should test the central air-conditioning system to be sure that it is cooling properly; replacement of an air-conditioning compressor can cost two to five thousand dollars.

Deferred maintenance. Be very careful of homes where deferred maintenance is clearly evident; if a home has been poorly maintained and there are obvious problems, proceed with extreme caution, this could be your worst nightmare where you wake up in the middle of the night screaming (the home of your dreams has become the home of your screams). If there are obvious problems, imagine what you can't see; it's your money pit, keep your check book handy. A handyman's special is best acquired by a handy man.

Be careful of homes where there is obvious plumbing and electrical work, as well as structural additions and renovations that were not professionally installed and were most likely installed by the home owner; correcting these defects can cost thousands of dollars. This is a situation where the seller of the home is a weekend warrior who is well intentioned but has no clue regarding proper construction and trade practices; don't end up writing checks for work that the seller did not want to pay for.

Engineer's report. It is preferable to retain the services of a home inspector who issues a full written report detailing what is wrong, why it's wrong, and what needs to be done to correct the uncovered defects. Home inspection reports that consist of check lists handed to you at the end of an inspection are often void of needed detail; checking off good, fair poor, adequate, inadequate, etc. often leaves you wondering what to do next. Be sure that you retain services of an engineer whose door is open for future questions.

Once you have narrowed your choices for a rental unit, consider the following list of questions as you thoroughly inspect each potential unit. This pre-renting inspection checklist can be used to compare the quality of your choices.

How much is rent?

Is there a late charge for paying your rent after the due date?

Can the rent be increased at any time during the lease?

What is the length or term of the lease? Is it negotiable?

How much advance notice must the residents give before the end of the lease

if they plan to vacate?

What are the requirements for a full refund of your security deposit?

Is subleasing allowed? User what conditions?

Who pays for water, sewage and garbage?

Who is called for emergencies or repairs?

Is there a list of rules and regulations for residents of the property?

Is there a nonrefundable cleaning fee or other charge? How much is it?

Are there limits on the number of occupants in the apartment?

Are pets allowed? Is there a pet deposit and is it refundable?

BE SURE TO OBTAIN A COPY OF THE LEASE.

Security

Does the building or unit have a security system?

Is there a working smoke alarm?

Does the apartment have adequate outdoor lighting?

What happens if a key is lost?

Is there a peephole installed?

Fixtures

Is the refrigerator clean and in working condition?

Is the heating system gas or electric? Is it in proper working order?

If the apartment is carpeted, is it clean and in good condition?

Do all of the fixtures, i.e. faucets, toilet, drains and drain stoppers in the bathroom work?

Are there enough windows in the apartment? Do they lock?

Is there a doorbell? If so, does it work?

Amenities

Is there ample study room for all occupants in the apartment?

Is there sufficient closet space in the apartment?

Is there a private yard? If so, who maintains it?

Is the apartment air conditioned? Who will be responsible for replacing the filter?

Are ceiling fans provided? If not, are they allowed?

Will all of your furniture fit in the apartment?

Does the complex have private recreational facilities?

How far are grocery and convenience stores from the apartment?

Apartment Inspection Checklist of some things to consider during your apartment search:

Terms and Conditions Unit 1   Unit 2 Unit 3 Unit 4 Unit 5 Unit 6 Date available             Deposit             Pet rules/deposit             Late payment charges             Length of lease             Penalty for breaking lease             Physical changes allowed             Rent amount             Rent due             Subletting             Utilities included             Water             Heat             Garbage             Other             Apartment Unit 1 Unit 2 Unit 3 Unit 4 Unit 5 Unit 6 Air conditioning             Ample outlets             Bedroom privacy             Blinds/curtains             Cable TV connection             Carpet             Hardwood floors             Closet space             Fireplace             Furniture             Light Fixtures             Natural light             Paint/wall conditions             Patio/balcony             Pet-friendly             Phone jack in each room             Storage             Upstairs/downstairs             View             Water pressure             Kitchen Unit 1 Unit 2 Unit 3 Unit 4 Unit 5 Unit 6 Age of refrigerator             Counter space             Dishwasher             Garbage disposal             Gas/electric stove             Microwave             Smoothly opening drawers             Community Unit 1  Unit 2 Unit 3 Unit 4 Unit 5 Unit 6 Laundry facilities             Loud garbage chute nearby             Noise level             Parking             Bike racks             Elevators/stairs proximity             Roof access             Soundproof walls             Mailbox             Safety Unit 1  Unit 2 Unit 3 Unit 4 Unit 5 Unit 6 Emergency exits             Fire extinguishers             Functioning windows             Gated entrance             Intercom             Lead hazards             Locks on all doors             Outside lighting             Screens             Smoke detectors             Neighborhood Unit 1  Unit 2 Unit 3 Unit 4 Unit 5 Unit 6 Average community age             Public transportation proximity             Distance from school/work             Proximity of grocery, bank, post office, etc.